I had a week from the time we finished at SPEC til my flight home on July 26 so Erik(fellow Minnesotan) and I decided to head to Belfast, Northern Ireland. We stayed with our friend Franclin who is from Cameroon and had come to SPEC in May to work with us for a week. Franclin works at a center called Corrymeela (look it up!) in a little village called Ballycastle, just north of Belfast about an hour. It was there that I decided Ireland has got to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.
The first two days we spent in the city, exploring the streets and shops. Thursday we were lucky enough to meet up with fellow SPEC-ies Amelia(American) and Jess(Kiwi...from New Zealand)and Jess's parents who were visiting for the month. They joined us for a "Hop-on Hop-off Bus tour" of the city; what a great way to learn about the city! Jess's parents were a hoot; they were both born and raised in South Africa and moved to New Zealand when Jess was ten years old. I was fascinated by the stories they shared about life back in South Africa.
I don't know if you know much about the rather recent history of Northern Ireland and the conflict that they've endured. It's referred to as "the troubles" between Protestant unionists and Catholic nationalists, or the republicans and the loyalists. Starting back in the 1960s, the conflict continues today, though not to the same degree that it was even 15 years ago.
As we were on the bus tour, we saw hundreds of murals painted on billboards and the sides of buildings crying out for peace between the two peoples. We saw several paintings that were memorials for those who had suffered or died from the conflict, expressing the great courage and perseverance their lives displayed. Some of the paintings gave me chills, as they depicted men dressed in black with machine guns, with a message written about their intent. I've never been in a place like that, so affected by political conflict that you see it on every street you walk down, and practically every building in sight.
One thing that I saw that took my head for a spin was the children that were walking up and down the street where we were staying. Franclin had warned us as we walked to the house the first day that we might see these kids out, declaring their unionist support. I wasn't quite sure what he meant until we actually saw the kids. Sure enough, they were marching up and down the street, banging their bass drums and yelling some chant(which we couldn't quite make out the words to). He said it seems to be something so engrained in them, it's a pasttime that has been passed down to them from generation to generation. It gave me goosebumps when I first saw them as I really had never seen anything like it before. It still blows my mind how much political conflict can truly affect everyone and everything and in ways we never expect to see it.
Also, if you brush up on your Irish history, you will discover that the Titanic was actually built in Belfast(how cool is that?!) so as we were on the tour, we got to see the building sight as well as the new museum that is being constructed to be finished in the upcoming years. We also passed the Royal Hospital, where the portable heart defibrillator was invented. Our tour guide said this made Belfast the best city to have a heart attack in, and the city most likely to give you one. At one point, our tour guide had told us we were about to pass the house of the most optimistic man in Belfast("how do you measure that?" I thought). And sure enough, just as we drove by the house, we saw an
outdoor swimming pool in his backyard. Apparently it's the only one in the whole city.
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| Family dinner |
After the bus tour, we invited the others to join us for dinner so we all headed back to the house we were staying at and Erik and I cooked delicious stir fry for everyone. As we sat around and chatted about life in England, Cameroon, and America, there were a few moments I just found myself sitting there, soaking in everything around me. I thought about how lucky I am to be blessed with such wonderful friends. How lucky I am that I get to meet people from every walk of life. How lucky I am that I get to explore this beautiful world. How lucky I am to be alive. (sounds cheesy, I know. But it was just one of those moments.)
After a few hours of laughing and storytelling, we waved goodbye to Amelia, Jess and her family as they had flown into Dublin, hired a car, and were planning to continue their drive up north. Then Franclin, Erik and I decided we wanted to take in some traditional Irish music so headed to a pub in the city center for the evening. Franclin's friend, Owen, came and joined us and we had a blast. Owen was born and raised in Holywood, just outside of Belfast, where Rory McIlroy, PGA golfer who won this year's U.S. Open, is from. Owen said he's even talked to him several times before! I had Erik take a picture of me enjoying a Guinness(of course), with a ginger Irishman, while listening to the beautiful Irish music...I was lovin' it all.
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| Franclin & I at Queen's University |
Friday morning we made our way towards Queens University (beautiful campus!) and the Corymeela office. We were very grateful that two of Franclin's co-workers offered to give us a ride out to Ballycastle and Corymeela, so we wouldn't have to make the 2-3 hour long trip by bus. It was such a beautiful drive!
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| The view from Corymeela |
As soon as we got out there, Franclin gave us a tour of the site and then it was lunchtime. After having a little time to relax, we decided we wanted to go out for a hike and Franclin said "I know just where we'll go...Fairhead." Sounds great! So we set out our our afternoon excursion. We come to discover that Franclin had only ever walked this trail once before, and that was way back in October. Though the path was pretty easy to follow as it was guided by the shoreline, there were some parts that were a bit overgrown by bushes and were about 3 inches deep with mud. I thought it made it that much more entertaining. We finally made it as far down as we could go before we had to start climbing up the big hill to the rocky ridge of Fairhead.
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Franclin thought about trying to catch one...
but decided against it. |
At one point we passed a herd of sheep and I thought to myself, "How the heck do you take care of your herd if they're way out here?!" I definitely didn't see a road anywhere close and the closest house was at least 2 miles away. As I was contemplating the logistics of keeping a bunch of sheep so far away, we reached the top and as I turned around to see the view, it completely took my breath away. As I looked straight ahead, across the water, I could see an island. To the right were the mountains of Scotland and to the left was the village of Ballycastle.
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View from Fairhead...
or what I could capture of it. |
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I took so many pictures but none of them could truly capture the beauty that was before us. We agreed that we deserved a break so we sat there for awhile, just soaking in the majestic gift of Creation.
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| headin home |
When we finally caught our breath, we started back towards Corymeela, this time staying on top of the ridge to make our way back, but still not really sure where we were going. Let's just say, we had a good time making our own trail.
We made it back just in time to catch the tail-end of dinner. Even though I was rather toasty from the hike, the beef and vegetable soup tasted so delicious! The potatoes were rather tasty as well (Franclin had warned us about the overload of potatoes he'd gotten this year, they have them EVERY day!). After dinner, we had a little time to relax before some of the volunteers started heading to the pub in the village. We walked about 35 minutes to Ballycastle(which made the 15 minute walks at SPEC seem like a piece of cake) which was absolutely beautiful. We walked by the edge of a golf course, which was right along the beach and as we got closer to the village, we could see all the lights, shining bright and reflecting on the water. As we made our way into the village, we found a very traditional, very small, Irish pub. As we walked in, I felt like I was stepping back in time. It was one of the oldest pubs in the area and the people there made it feel like we'd been family for just as long. Of course, there was live traditional Irish music that night (which happens almost every night, I'm sure) but it was the
real traditional kind, meaning it was just instruments and no singing. So here were these three men: one playing a fiddle, one playing an accordion, and one playing a drum and they weren't on a stage(there was no room for a stage in that pub) they were just sitting around their table like they normally would, just playin' away, and of course, a few pint glasses there, ready to nourish them when they needed it. I was just captivated by the friendliness of the place, by the music, and by those three men, they didn't stop smiling the whole night! What a perfect way to spend our last night in Ireland.
As it was getting pretty late(11 pm is late for pubs in the UK...that definitely took some getting used to) we pooled our money together with some of the others and got a cab home. When we got back, everyone pretty much went to bed but I still had so much energy from experiencing some true Irish culture, Erik, Franclin and I ended up sitting and talking for a little while, talking about our day and how we didn't want it to end.
But as the saying goes, all good things must come to an end. Saturday morning we had to wake up by 5 am so we could make the trek back to Ballycastle and catch the bus to get back to Belfast. We actually ended up having to get on 2 different buses, which took about 2 1/2 hours to get us to the city, longer than the car ride up, but shorter than walking all the way! As we got into Belfast, we had about an hour until Erik and I had to head to the airport to catch our flight. We bid farwell to Franclin and thanked him abundantly for being such a fabulous host. He'd made the trip so enjoyable, we were so incredibly grateful for his generosity. We made one last stop at a Irish souvenir shoppe (where the bulk of their merchandise was Guinness labeled stuff) and then made our way to the airport. We had just enough time to grab coffee and a sandwich before we had to get on the plane and before we knew it, we were in the air, London-bound. I couldn't believe our trip was over already. It was a bit of a whirlwind, but it was so worth it. I decided that if/when Franclin moves down to Dublin next year, I'm going to go visit him there too. That's the wonderful thing about making friends with people from all over the world, now I have lots of places to go visit! The thing about the friends I've made this year is that they feel like they are more than just friends, they feel like family.
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| My brothers |